Saturday, April 26, 2014

Dreaming of Japan… Itinerary & Top 10 Tourist Experiences

Lately I have been dreaming of going to Japan.  I'd love my husband and daughter to see it and I'd just love to be there: getting lost amongst all the people on the streets, navigating the massive train stations, quickly grabbing onigiri (rice balls) for lunch or walking through the friendly and lively streets of Tokyo way too late at night.

Realistically, a trip with my toddler wouldn't be visiting the Japan I remember.  For now, I am happy to wait and get by with little experiences of Japan in my day-to-day life (I'll write about them soon! For a slightly out of date taster, try clicking here).



However, if I HAD TO rush off to Japan for 10 days next week, this is what I'd do….

(PLUS, see below for a top 10 of my tourist experiences in Japan)

Day 1: Day flight in to Tokyo - Narita Airport.  Be kind to yourself and get the N'EX - Narita Express- to Shinjuku.  It is about 90 minutes, so make sure you head to the convenience store at the airport and get a beer and snacks.  Woohoo! You are in Japan.  Last time I was in Tokyo (2009), I stayed HERE.  Kabukicho is a bit seedy, but I feel pretty safe there.  (I was victim to a bag grabbing in Tokyo once - way out in the suburbs, a block from my apartment.  So do look after yourself as you would in any other large city)


Day 2: Sunday.  Take it easy, take it all in.  I am linking to a friend's blog, Tight Arse Travel, as it has a day trip I wrote about that is perfect for a Sunday in Tokyo.  Find it here.  I have copied it here too:

This half day plan for Tokyo is especially good for Sundays & a good remedy to museums. Apart from train tickets, food & drink, it is all free. It is worth a mention that these are based on my time there in 2006.

Take the train to Shibuya station & get out at the Hachiko exit. Have a look at the loyal dog statue and check out the busiest pedestrian crossing in the world. There is a Starbucks with a great view over the crossing - a great spot for people watching.

Next up, walk to Harajuku station (or train it) - there is an elevated walkway towards the park. On Sundays this is where you'll find heaps of dressed up teenagers looking all Gothic or manga-like & loving the attention. Keep going and you'll find Meiji jinga (shrine) in Yoyogi Park. The shrine has a lovely long entrance that includes walking under the torii gates - it is a nice shady place to be in summer. The shrine is great to look at and you'll often see a traditional wedding.  
Head back out and spend some time in Yoyogi park - on the weekend there's some awesome people watching, pet watching (dressed up dogs, rabbits … crazy stuff) plus people doing kendo, singing or dancing.
Hungry?  If you are happy at the park, grab an ice-cream from one of the vending machines (Y100) or head back to Harajuku station and grab something from the convenience store (beer, rice ball, sushi, spaghetti ... there's a high turnover so there's a fair range and fresh Y300+).  If you are happy to leave the park, walk into Harajuku, on to the main drag - Omotesando dori/street. Opposite Zara, there is a cheap but good sushi train place on the first floor - plates from Y100, plus all the wasabi, ginger & tea you can eat & drink.  

Bonus activity: The Tokyo Metropolitan Government Buildings in Nishi-Shinjuku are open morning- evening: the observation deck will give you an idea of the size the city.

Day 3: It is Monday, so think about whether you want to get in amongst rush hour in the world's most busy train station or not.  It should be less crowded by 9am ish.  Head out to Omiya today.  It is not a huge tourist destination, but it has a great kimono shop - reasonable prices, plus try on.  They also have a business in central tokyo if you'd like to get your hair and makeup done, have a tea ceremony and visit a shrine in your kimono.  See the website here.  In the afternoon, visit the Edo Tokyo Museum for a good history of Tokyo, including dioramas and models.  Tonight head out to an izakaya for tea and drinks, plus "just half an hour" of karaoke.  The karaoke place they used in Lost in Translation is close to the hotel and has great views.

Day 4:  Check out of the hotel and lock your bags at Shinjuku Station in a locker.  Hardcore Tokyo today: Tsukiji Wholesale fish markets, Akihabara - Electric Town & weird manga stuff, Senso-ji Temple, Kappabashi-dori (for awesome catering gear, including plastic food and beautiful crockery), the Imperial Palace and a look at Ginza.  Tonight you are on the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Hiroshima, so go to a convenience store and buy dinner or get a bento at the station.  There is a huge turnover of food in Tokyo, so it is fresher than you might expect.  Check in to your hotel (no recommendation, sorry! Maybe try the local Tokyu Hotel) and sleep...

Day 5: Why did I make DAY 4 so full on?  2 reasons- Japan is fast paced, you had a slow start to warm up but now it is time to travel hard, Empress!  Secondly, and more importantly, is to get the most mileage out of your 7 Day Japan Rail Pass.  For the rest of your trip -including the pricey trip back to the airport- your train costs are covered.  Yes, thank you would be appropriate right now!!

You are in Hiroshima.  I don't love Horror Tourism (Auschwitz, HoChiMinh War Museum, Phnom Penh) but I did find the Peace Museum fascinating.  Go in the morning, then head out to Miya Jima - a shrine by/in the water.  Tonight is all about the local speciality: okonomiyaki. And beer. And talking about how we can rid the world of nuclear weapons.

Day 6: Heading to Kyoto.  Stop off at Himeji to stretch your legs and see an awesome castle.  Check in to your hotel in Kyoto then go geisha spotting in Gion at sunset.  Early night in preparation for another big day of sightseeing. Stay at a traditional inn (ryokan) near Kyoto Station: HERE .


Fushimi Inari Shrine (as seen in Memoirs of a Geisha)

Day 7-9: Kyoto is a wonderland of temples, shines and beauty set amongst an otherwise standard modern city.  I love it.  Find moments to breath in the old Japan before hot footing it to the next sight.  It can be overwhelming, my picks would be: Kiomizudera, Fushimi Inari Shrine, the Arashiyama area and the nightingale floor at the castle.  But there are many sights so do your homework and don't forget to stop every now and then - one travel companion had a one temple / one ice-cream rule, but that would be challenging to most appetites in Kyoto!

Also in the area is Nara and Osaka - easy to get to by train for a day trip.

Kinkaku-ji, Kyoto

Day 10: Travelling back to Tokyo.  A free day to make sure you get all the karaoke-ing, shopping or hot spring bathing you need done.  If you haven't already, go to a 100 yen store ($2 shop, but better) to buy some souvenirs.  Train to Tokyo during day - hopefully you will see Fuji san from train.  Then out to airport.  After you check in, my tip is to head back to the convenience store for some umeshu or sake then spend your last few hundred yen on a massage chair.  Nice way to relax for the night flight home…

Top 10 Tourist Experiences in Japan, no particular order…

1. Night cruise on Tokyo Bay- Okonomiyaki and beer, plus a gorgeous view.  The boats are a bit decrepit, so drinking beer helps.

2. Karaoke.  The first rule of Karaoke Club is: no one is made to sing!!  Give karaoke a go to see what the fuss is about.  In my experience, most people come reluctantly and end up having fun.



3. The Sapporo Ice Festival - see the sculptures carved from ice then visit the Sapporo Beer Factory for a tour, tasting and the Genghis Khan BBQ.

4. Bathing in a hot spring with a pretty view.

5. Shopping: 100 yen stores, Loft, Kappabashi Street, 3 Coins (300 Yen store) - there's some great shopping.

6. Hakone.  Stay at the Fuji Hakone Guesthouse, get the all inclusive ticket.  It is a beautiful place to see Mt Fuji, enjoy the hot springs and get away from the hustle and bustle.  I contemplated adding this to the suggested itinerary for the last couple of days as a nice way to round off the trip - see how you go!

7.  Taiko drumming is pretty awesome - I saw a performance and would recommend.  I am not really in to many cultural performances (I've seen a few on my travels and tend to be dinky) but I love the energy of taiko.



8. Sumo - check to see if there is a bout on when you go.  Great fun and easy to understand what is going on - even I could understand the rules!

9. Tokyo Disney Land and Universal Studios Osaka.  Fun days out and a novelty if you don't have these theme parks near your home.  I still remember the thrill of cycling into the sky with E.T. and hearing him say my name!

10. The Japanese are great at celebrating the changing seasons.  I loved cherry blossom season - picnics at the park under the trees.  I also loved the changing colours of the ginkgoes and the Japanese Maples.  Summer meant festivals - the chance to dress up in summer kimonos - while winter was for eating nabe and visiting the a shrine in the early hours of the new year to bring good luck.

Of course there are many great travel experiences to be had - have you been to Japan?  What would you add?





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